Everyone has a dream. But sometimes there’s a gap between where we are and where we want to be. True, there are some people who can bridge that gap easily, on their own, but all of us need a little help at some point. A little boost. An accountability partner. A Snooze Squad. In each episode, the Snooze Squad will strategize an action plan for people to face their fears. Guests will transform their own perception of their potential and walk away a few inches closer to who they want to become ...
…
continue reading
Contenu fourni par Steven Dimmitt. Tout le contenu du podcast, y compris les épisodes, les graphiques et les descriptions de podcast, est téléchargé et fourni directement par Steven Dimmitt ou son partenaire de plateforme de podcast. Si vous pensez que quelqu'un utilise votre œuvre protégée sans votre autorisation, vous pouvez suivre le processus décrit ici https://fr.player.fm/legal.
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Player FM - Application Podcast
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EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts
Manage episode 396835361 series 2638497
Contenu fourni par Steven Dimmitt. Tout le contenu du podcast, y compris les épisodes, les graphiques et les descriptions de podcast, est téléchargé et fourni directement par Steven Dimmitt ou son partenaire de plateforme de podcast. Si vous pensez que quelqu'un utilise votre œuvre protégée sans votre autorisation, vous pouvez suivre le processus décrit ici https://fr.player.fm/legal.
Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finger strength while minimizing risk, the value of wrist and hand training, common causes of climbing injuries, his advice for my trip to Hueco, what he learned from his trip to Squamish, why climbers shouldn’t train like gymnasts, what sets the best athletes apart, and much more!
Check out C4HP or Schedule an Appointment With Tyler!
Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!
Check out Crimpd!
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!
Use this link for 10% off your first month!
REGISTER NOW for the PCC!
www.performanceclimbingcoach.com
Use code "NUGGET" for 10% off Early Bird pricing until Jan 28th!
Check out PhysiVantage!
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
- Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelson-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:04:03) – The donut festival
(00:06:26) – Tyler’s granite spray wall
(00:07:46) – Mirrored boards
(00:13:06) – Alcohol and more donuts
(00:14:21) – Outline of topics
(00:16:17) – Finger training topics
(00:34:46) – How Tyler warms up for limit bouldering
(00:41:58) – Hand training, recruitment, and coordination
(00:49:23) – Summary of our session
(00:50:21) – When to end a session
(00:52:48) – Using a mix of tools
(00:54:26) – Intensity vs. volume
(00:59:49) – Building capacity off the wall
(01:01:39) – Supplementing your climbing with less risky hand/finger training tools
(01:05:22) – When to hangboard (and when not to)
(01:09:42) – Learning and changing your mind
(01:11:25) – Tyler’s guidance for me in Hueco
(01:17:25) – Should we climb less?
(01:20:24) – Lions don’t go jogging
(01:21:53) – Making sense of Alex Megos’ and Adam Ondra’s training volume
(01:23:31) – My takeaways for Hueco
(01:24:47) – What Tyler learned from his trip to Squamish
(01:30:02) – What is the campus board good for?
(01:40:14) – How important is RFD in climbing?
(01:44:33) – Common causes of injuries
(01:52:32) – Transitioning back to hard climbing
(01:54:55) – How your tendons change when you build capacity
(01:58:29) – Do our tendons get thicker?
(02:00:24) – Where does our long-term finger strength come from?
(02:02:57) – What sets the best athletes apart?
(02:07:46) – Takeaways
(02:11:48) – How Tyler changes his clients’ training habits
(02:14:41) – The future of finger training
(02:18:04) – Calisthenics vs. strength training
(02:26:19) – Are rings exercises strength training?
(02:30:12) – More strength training takeaways
(02:37:05) – Wrap up
297 episodes
Partager
Manage episode 396835361 series 2638497
Contenu fourni par Steven Dimmitt. Tout le contenu du podcast, y compris les épisodes, les graphiques et les descriptions de podcast, est téléchargé et fourni directement par Steven Dimmitt ou son partenaire de plateforme de podcast. Si vous pensez que quelqu'un utilise votre œuvre protégée sans votre autorisation, vous pouvez suivre le processus décrit ici https://fr.player.fm/legal.
Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finger strength while minimizing risk, the value of wrist and hand training, common causes of climbing injuries, his advice for my trip to Hueco, what he learned from his trip to Squamish, why climbers shouldn’t train like gymnasts, what sets the best athletes apart, and much more!
Check out C4HP or Schedule an Appointment With Tyler!
Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!
Check out Crimpd!
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!
Use this link for 10% off your first month!
REGISTER NOW for the PCC!
www.performanceclimbingcoach.com
Use code "NUGGET" for 10% off Early Bird pricing until Jan 28th!
Check out PhysiVantage!
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
- Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelson-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:04:03) – The donut festival
(00:06:26) – Tyler’s granite spray wall
(00:07:46) – Mirrored boards
(00:13:06) – Alcohol and more donuts
(00:14:21) – Outline of topics
(00:16:17) – Finger training topics
(00:34:46) – How Tyler warms up for limit bouldering
(00:41:58) – Hand training, recruitment, and coordination
(00:49:23) – Summary of our session
(00:50:21) – When to end a session
(00:52:48) – Using a mix of tools
(00:54:26) – Intensity vs. volume
(00:59:49) – Building capacity off the wall
(01:01:39) – Supplementing your climbing with less risky hand/finger training tools
(01:05:22) – When to hangboard (and when not to)
(01:09:42) – Learning and changing your mind
(01:11:25) – Tyler’s guidance for me in Hueco
(01:17:25) – Should we climb less?
(01:20:24) – Lions don’t go jogging
(01:21:53) – Making sense of Alex Megos’ and Adam Ondra’s training volume
(01:23:31) – My takeaways for Hueco
(01:24:47) – What Tyler learned from his trip to Squamish
(01:30:02) – What is the campus board good for?
(01:40:14) – How important is RFD in climbing?
(01:44:33) – Common causes of injuries
(01:52:32) – Transitioning back to hard climbing
(01:54:55) – How your tendons change when you build capacity
(01:58:29) – Do our tendons get thicker?
(02:00:24) – Where does our long-term finger strength come from?
(02:02:57) – What sets the best athletes apart?
(02:07:46) – Takeaways
(02:11:48) – How Tyler changes his clients’ training habits
(02:14:41) – The future of finger training
(02:18:04) – Calisthenics vs. strength training
(02:26:19) – Are rings exercises strength training?
(02:30:12) – More strength training takeaways
(02:37:05) – Wrap up
297 episodes
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Similaire à The Nugget Climbing Podcast
Everyone has a dream. But sometimes there’s a gap between where we are and where we want to be. True, there are some people who can bridge that gap easily, on their own, but all of us need a little help at some point. A little boost. An accountability partner. A Snooze Squad. In each episode, the Snooze Squad will strategize an action plan for people to face their fears. Guests will transform their own perception of their potential and walk away a few inches closer to who they want to become ...
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continue reading
Are you looking for more happiness, success and vitality in your life? Get inspired each week with Wellness Expert, Integrative Medicine Fellow & Keynote Speaker, Kristel Bauer. Live Greatly shares empowering conversations about life, wellness & success talking with top experts, athletes, celebrities, CEOs and other incredible individuals. Tune in for insights to thrive personally and professionally. It’s time to awaken your ultimate potential! Disclaimer: All of the information shared on th ...
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continue reading
We are often distracted in life and never really dive deep into the real foundation of self improvement, goal achieving, and wellbeing. - Join our team of experts every week as we discuss the real facets of manhood. Topics like: How to develop more self esteem, self love, deeper relationships. How to improve our wellbeing, mental toughness, resilience, and productivity. How to develop critical skills, become better leaders, expand our careers/business, create financial security and contribut ...
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continue reading
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continue reading
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continue reading
Gretchen Rubin is HAPPIER, and she wants you to be happier too. The #1 bestselling author of The Happiness Project and Better Than Before gets more personal than ever as she brings her practical, manageable advice about happiness and good habits to this lively, thought-provoking podcast. Gretchen’s cohost and guinea pig is her younger sister, Elizabeth Craft, a TV writer and producer living in Los Angeles, who (lovingly) refers to Gretchen as her happiness bully. Part of the Audacy Network.
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continue reading
The Art of Charm is where self-motivated people, just like you, come to learn from the company’s coaches about to how to master human dynamics, relationships, and becoming your best self with the help of Johnny and AJ, the company’s founders. Johnny and AJ bring their 11 years of coaching experience from their famous Bootcamps, where they host clients in Los Angeles from all over the world and they share their stories, best practices and themselves on this weekly podcast. Not only does The A ...
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Player FM - Application Podcast
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